Technique How To: Bias Bound Collar


Bias adds a sweet trim to the collar of this baby apron

I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas! As we look forward to the upcoming year, now is a great time to think about what sewing goals you’d like to achieve in 2016. Maybe you want to plan a christening gown for a future grandchild, sew Easter garments or learn new techniques. I have a great technique to share with you today that you’ll certainly want to add to your repertoire. Michié Mooney’s technique for a bias bound collar was originally featured in our January/February 2012 issue of Sew Beautiful. Michié applied the technique to a baby apron (her “Baby Apron” #122 pattern) made in white and pale blue Imperial batiste. Follow her directions to apply the technique to your own projects:

1. Lightly spray starch and press fabric before cutting out collar and lining pieces.

2. Pin collar and lining wrong sides together. These will now be treated as one piece. Baste collar layers together around neck edge 1/2 inch from cut edge.


3. Stitch around outer edge of collar along 5/8-inch seam allowance using a stitch length of 2.0 (fig. 1).

4. Trim away seam allowance close to stitching line (fig. 2).

5. Cut a bias piece of fabric 1 inch wide and long enough to go around outer edge of collar.


6. With right sides together, matching raw edges, gently ease bias into curve shape using steam. Do not pull or stretch bias strip around collar. Pin and then stitch bias strip to outer edge of collar using a 1/4-inch seam (fig. 3). You may also use basting glue within seam allowance before stitching.

7. Press bias away from stitching to wrong side of collar over seam allowance. On wrong side of collar, turn under raw edge of bias strip and hand slip-stitch to stitching line (fig. 4). Bias binding showing on right side of collar will be 1/4 inch wide.


8. Repeat instructions on second collar in mirror image (fig. 5).

9. Press collars and attach them to garment following pattern instructions.

We are having a huge sale in our online store through the end of the year – you can take an additional 50 percent off clearance items when you use coupon code EXTRA50 at checkout! Be sure to click this link and take a look around – there are lots of fabric prints and solids as well as bias, piping and more you can get at great, low prices.

In case you missed the news last week, the schedule for our 2016 live-and-in person events has been announced! You can check it out here – registration is now open for the Vintage, Classic, Contemporary licensing in Atlanta. We’ll open registration for the other four events soon, so stay tuned. We can’t wait to see you in 2016!

Want to join our Teaching Beginning Sewing II Online Licensing? There’s still time! This online course lasts until May 1, 2016, and you can conveniently work on the course projects all at your own pace and on your own schedule! Learn more and register here.

We pray for the men and women serving our nation in harm’s way, and for all of you.

Much Love to You All & May God Bless,
Kathy McMakin


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