Stitch a Bullion Loop Flower


Dainty bullion loop flowers add a colorful touch to the collar of this adorable dress from Australian Smocking & Embroidery. Designed by Lesley Fletcher, “Ava” is made with a fresh floral print and features a fully smocked bodice in vibrant blue and pink. The lace trimmed hem of an attached petticoat peeks out below the skirt, and a beautiful sash ties at the back. Follow the step-by-step instructions from AS&E below to recreate the bullion loop flowers pictured on the crisp white piqué Peter Pan collar, and check out Australian Smocking & Embroidery issue 91 in our store for the pattern and complete instructions for making this dress.

Helpful Hints:
• It is easier to manipulate the thread, needle and fabric without a hoop when working bullion knots.

• The eye and shaft of the needle should be consistent in diameter to pass the needle through the wraps without distortion.

• To end off a thread, work two tiny back stitches into the embroidery on the wrong side of the fabric.

Embroidery Key:
All embroidery is worked with two strands of thread (unless otherwise noted).

Petals = 4 strands 5 bullion loops, 18 wraps 1 strand, couching
Center = French knot, 2 wraps
Leaves = detached chain

Bullion Loop Flower:
NOTE: A No. 9 milliner’s needle and DMC stranded cotton were used for the embroidery. Refer carefully to the close-up photographs for the positioning of the petals and leaves. We used contrasting thread for photographic purposes.


1. Petals – Bring the thread to the front at A. Leaving a loop, work a tiny stitch to B, reemerging next to A.

2. Wrap the thread around the needle, clockwise, 18 times. Holding the wraps, pull through, forming a bullion loop. Take the thread to the back.

3. Changing to one strand of thread, bring the needle to the front at C. Work a straight stitch to D to couch in place.


4. Work four more petals, evenly spaced around the marked position in the same manner.

5. Center – Changing thread, work three French knots in the center of the petals.

6. Leaves – Changing thread, work a pair of detached chain leaves at E and one at F. Work a mirror image on the remaining collar.

Find more heirloom inspiration in Australian Smocking & Embroidery. Each issue of this magazine includes multiple full-sized patterns, in-depth smocking and embroidery tutorials and more.

Happy Sewing,


One thought on “Stitch a Bullion Loop Flower


Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.