Dainty bullion loop flowers add a colorful touch to the collar of this adorable dress from Australian Smocking & Embroidery. Designed by Lesley Fletcher, “Ava” is made with a fresh floral print and features a fully smocked bodice in vibrant blue and pink. The lace trimmed hem of an attached petticoat peeks out below the skirt, and a beautiful sash ties at the back. Follow the step-by-step instructions from AS&E below to recreate the bullion loop flowers pictured on the crisp white piqué Peter Pan collar, and check out Australian Smocking & Embroidery issue 91 in our store for the pattern and complete instructions for making this dress.
• It is easier to manipulate the thread, needle and fabric without a hoop when working bullion knots.
• The eye and shaft of the needle should be consistent in diameter to pass the needle through the wraps without distortion.
• To end off a thread, work two tiny back stitches into the embroidery on the wrong side of the fabric.
All embroidery is worked with two strands of thread (unless otherwise noted).
Petals = 4 strands 5 bullion loops, 18 wraps 1 strand, couching
Center = French knot, 2 wraps
Leaves = detached chain
Bullion Loop Flower:
NOTE: A No. 9 milliner’s needle and DMC stranded cotton were used for the embroidery. Refer carefully to the close-up photographs for the positioning of the petals and leaves. We used contrasting thread for photographic purposes.
1. Petals – Bring the thread to the front at A. Leaving a loop, work a tiny stitch to B, reemerging next to A.
2. Wrap the thread around the needle, clockwise, 18 times. Holding the wraps, pull through, forming a bullion loop. Take the thread to the back.
3. Changing to one strand of thread, bring the needle to the front at C. Work a straight stitch to D to couch in place.
4. Work four more petals, evenly spaced around the marked position in the same manner.
5. Center – Changing thread, work three French knots in the center of the petals.
6. Leaves – Changing thread, work a pair of detached chain leaves at E and one at F. Work a mirror image on the remaining collar.
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