Smocking Tutorial: Two Step Wave Stitch

springsong

“Spring Song” designed by Cathy Gunn

If you’re looking for a cute, casual outfit for that special little girl, this precious “Spring Song” design is just the ticket! Designed by Cathy Gunn and featured in issue #97 of Australian Smocking & Embroidery, the pleated top is smocked at the center front with chevron shapes in colorful rainbow shades, then piped and finished with floral binding that matches the print of the elastic-waist capri pants. Follow the tutorial from Australian Smocking & Embroidery below to learn how to smock a two step wave, which is used on this design to create the simple yet visually striking smocking design. The complete pattern and instructions for making “Spring Song” is sizes 3, 4, 5 and 6 are featured in Australian Smocking & Embroidery issue #97.

  • Wave stitch is very elastic and one of the most commonly used stitches in smocking. It is formed with a combination of cable and stepped stitches and can be worked with any number of steps. By altering the number of steps and cables used and by working with either identical or mirror-imaged rows, a wide variety of patterns can be created. Repeated mirror image rows of wave stitch form a trellis.
  • The smocking is worked using three strands of DMC stranded cotton and a No. 8 crewel needle.

wavestitch1

1. Secure the thread on the back of the fabric. Bring it to the front between pleats 1 and 2.

2. Take the needle from right to left through pleat 1 ready to begin stitching.

3. With the thread above, take the needle from right to left through pleat 2.

wavestitch2

4. Pull through. Keeping the thread above and the needle horizontal, take it from right to left through pleat 3 a quarter space below.

5. Pull through. Keeping the thread above and the needle horizontal, take it from right to left through pleat 4 a quarter space below.

6. Pull through. With the thread below and still on the half space, take the needle from right to left through pleat 5.

wavestitch3

7. Pull through to form an under cable.

8. Keeping the thread below, take the needle from right to left through the next pleat a quarter space above.

9. Pull through. Keeping the thread below, take the needle from right to left through the next pleat on the pleating row above.

wavestitch4

10. Pull through. Work an over cable on the pleating row.

11. Continue working two steps down, under cable, two steps up, over cable across the row.

12. Take the thread to the back of the fabric in the valley of the last stitch.

Check out issue #97 of Australian Smocking & Embroidery for the complete pattern and instructions for “Spring Song” (sizes 3, 4, 5 and 6 years), and shop more AS&E patterns and magazine issues here!

Happy Sewing,
Natalie