How to Stitch a Bullion Rose on Smocking


Gingham Rose romper

We’re having a wonderful time in Palm Harbor, FL this week at our Perfect Mix: Sew, Serge, Embellish teacher licensing! I can’t wait to see all of you who will be joining us Monday for our Afternoon Tea With Martha and of course our Children’s Garment Construction licensing on Tuesday! If you’re not able to join us for these events, don’t worry: we have a School of Art Fashion Boutique in Fredericksburg, VA in September and two more licensing events in Costa Mesa, CA this November. We also just announced this week that we are bringing back our popular Serger I Online Licensing course Aug. 31, 2015 – Jan. 31, 2016. I invite you to join us for one or more of these events!

We have an adorable new project kit for a sweet little summer romper. The Gingham Rose romper, designed by Julie Graue and featured in issue 69 of Australian Smocking & Embroidery, is smocked from shoulder to waist with an easy diamond design. Each larger diamond is embroidered with a rose in full bloom or a tiny bud. Follow this tutorial from the magazine to learn how to stitch these beautiful bullion roses on smocking:

This bullion rose is worked over four pleats. The leaves on either side of the rose are each worked over two pleats. Use DMC stranded cotton, a No. 9 milliner’s needle (for the bullion roses) and a No. 7 crewel needle (for the leaves).


1. Center (over pleats 4 and 5). Secure the thread on the back of the fabric. Bring the needle to the front at A, on the left hand side of pleat 4.

2. Take the needle from right to left through the tops of pleats 5 and 4 (B to A). Leave the needle in the fabric.

3. Wrap the thread around the needle 10 times, wrapping clockwise and keeping the wraps firm.

4. Pull the thread through the wraps to complete the knot. Take the needle to the back at B to anchor.

5. Inner petals. Bring the needle up at C, at the top of pleat 4.

6. Take the needle from D, on the right of pleat 6, to C. Leave the needle in the fabric.


7. Wrap the thread clockwise around the needle 10 times. Complete the knot as before.

8. Bring the needle up at E, at the top of pleat 6.

9. Take the needle from F, on the left hand side of pleat 5, to E. Leave the needle in the fabric.

10. Complete the knot in the same manner as before.

11. Work a third petal from G, at the top of pleat 5, to H, on the lefthand side of pleat 4.

12. Outer petals. Bring the needle to front at I, on left hand side of pleat 4. Take the needle from J and back to I. Leave the needle in the fabric.


13. Wrap the thread around the needle 10 times and complete the knot.

14. Work a second petal from K to L.

15. Work a third petal from M to N.

16. Work the fourth, fifth and sixth petals in the same manner.

17. Work a pair of detached chain leaves on each side of the rose over pleats 1 to 3 and pleats 6 to 8. Completed bullion rose.

You can get the kit to make the Gingham Rose Romper in red gingham (sizes 6, 12 and 18 months) in our online store. As an added bonus, we are having a big Christmas in July sale through Sunday, July 26 – when you spend $50 or more, you’ll save $25!

Much Love to You All & May God Bless,
Kathy McMakin