How to Serge Lace to Fabric

Heirloom techniques can easily be created with your serger. Just set up for three-thread rolled hem / three-thread rolled edge with a stitch length of 2.0 and let the fun begin! Learning heirloom techniques as well as other beginning techniques is a vital part of all of our teacher licensing courses. In our Serger I Online Licensing, happening now, students master a whole bunch of heirloom sewing by serger techniques and beginning serger techniques. I’d like to share one of those techniques today: how to serge lace to fabric. Before we begin it’s important you know how to set your serger up for heirloom sewing and where your placement is underneath your foot, because you need to know where your blade is sewing and where your needle is cutting. It’s also very important you use good lace, such as French lace. If you’re just practicing you can use other options like lace hem tape, but if you’re making a project using good lace makes a big difference!


Photo 1

For this technique, you’re going to set your serger up for a three-thread rolled hem with a stitch length of 2.0. You want your differential feed to be about .7 or normal. Depending on what kind of serger you’re on, your serger foot might look a little different. Take a look at Photo 1. Do you see how this serger foot has a bar that sticks up on the right hand side of your right needle mark? If you’re set up for a rolled hem, you’re going to have your right needle in, and this is going to be the mark that corresponds to the needle that is sewing. The wall is to the right of the needle mark, so remember this saying for placement: “Heading of the lace, under the wall.”


Photo 2

Now look at Photo 2. If you’re on a serger like this, there is no wall. There’s a crack between the blade and the side of the foot. So think of this saying: “Heading of the lace, to the right of the (needle) mark.” Be careful not to put it so far over in the crack that the blade actually cuts off the lace. We want it to trim off a little edge of fabric, but we don’t want it to trim off any lace. Now let’s begin!

Serger Settings:
Three-thread rolled hem
Stitch length: about 2.0
Differential feed: .7 to 1 (normal)


“Lace to Fabric” 
Place the lace to the fabric, right sides together, with 1/8- to 1/4-inch of fabric extending beyond the lace. Serge, so that the needle catches the heading of the lace while rolling in the extension of fabric. Some fabric might be trimmed away (fig. 1a). “Heading of the lace, under the wall” or “Heading of the lace, to the right of the (needle) mark.” Press the serged seam toward the fabric (fig. 1b).


Photo 3

This creates a pretty rolled hem and all we have to do to finish is push the seam to the back (see Photo 3). Easy, easy!

If you are interested in mastering a whole bunch of serger techniques and receiving a gorgeous curriculum of over 20 serger projects, I invite you to join us for our Serger I Online Licensing course. The course is already underway, but since you do everything on your owns schedule and at your own pace, you haven’t missed anything! The course begins with a comprehensive look at sergers and all the techniques you need to know. We also share with you our favorite notions for easy serging and lots of tips on how to teach serging, just like we do during our in-person teacher licensing events. To receive your teaching license at the end of the course, you need to complete eight required projects as well as some beginning serger technique samples. Don’t want to teach? That’s OK. We have many students with no plans to teach. You can teach the projects in your own classrooms, make the projects for sale without limit or make them for your enjoyment. Learn more and register for Serger I Online Licensing here.

Registration is also open for our new Teaching Beginning Sewing II Online Licensing, which begins Nov. 15!

Don’t forget we also have several in-person licensing events coming up next month in Costa Mesa, CA. Serger II will be held Nov. 1-6 and Vintage Classic Contemporary will be Nov. 8-13, We’ll also have a one-day Martha Pullen and More event between the two licensings on Nov. 7 where you can take an heirloom workshop with me, shop, spend time with Martha and more. Learn more about all of our upcoming live events here.

We pray for the men and women serving our nation in harm’s way, and for all of you.

Much Love to You All & May God Bless,
Kathy McMakin


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