By Claire Meldrum
Continued from the article “Tickled Pink,” Issue 146 (page 44) (Jan/Feb 2013)
Instructions for the ruffled, Tilda rose print, “Frannie” dress as seen in the Tickled Pink article by Claire Meldrum in Sew Beautiful Issue 146 (Jan/Feb 2013)
Pattern and materials are from store.marthapullen.com
- 3/4 yard Tilda Rose Stripe Red T-480171
- 1 yard Tilda Grandma’s Rose Red T-480178
- 1/2 yard Tilda Big Spot Pink T-480177
- 1/2 yard Tilda Vintage Ornament Red T-480173
- 1/3 yard Tilda Pink Dots (for piping) T-080742
- 2 1/2 yards mini piping cord or 2 1/2 yards pink pre-made mini piping
- 3 yards mini pink rickrack trim
- Two 3/8-inch green buttons (to match leaves in print)
- 8-inch-square scrap of lightweight interfacing
- Machine sewing thread to match fabric
Adapt Skirt Pattern
- Copy or trace View A/B (#1 and #2) so that you have two skirt patterns from which you can draft an underskirt and an overskirt.
- Underskirt: Subtract 6 3/4 inches from bottom of front and back skirt View A/B (#1 and #2). This eliminates the 3-inch hem and 3 3/4 inches to accommodate width of bottom ruffle.
- Draw a ruffle guideline 3 3/4 inches above bottom cut edge on both front and back skirts. Set front underskirt aside (fig. 1).
- Draw another ruffle guideline 3 1/4 inches from first one, then another guideline 31/4 inches above second one as shown (fig. 2). Ruffle #2 ends 2-inches from side raw edge, and ruffle #1 ends 31/2 inches from sides edge. These two ruffle lines do not extend into the side seams in order to reduce bulk under the back skirt overlay. From the back, they appear to go all the way across, but the ends are hidden by the overlay.
- Overskirt: Create the overskirt using the second copy of the front and back skirt patterns that you created in step 1. Subtract 83/4 inches from bottom of front and back skirt. Set front aside. Draft a new back for over skirt by first making a mark at top edge 1 inch from center foldline. Draw a curve from mark at top to bottom side edge as shown to create a peak-a-boo back overlay (fig. 3).
- Front Bodice View A/B (#1): Grandma’s Rose Red (cut two)
- Back Bodice View A/B (#2): Grandma’s Rose Red (cut two)
- Skirt Placket (#7): Grandma’s Rose Red (cut one)
- Underskirt Front and Back: Grandma’s Rose Red (cut one each on fold)
- Overskirt Front: Rose Stripe Red (cut one on fold)
- Overskirt Back: Rose Stripe Red (cut two)
- Collar (#12): Rose Stripe Red (cut four)-(two from pattern; two mirror image, cut two from interfacing)
- Piping: Pink Dots Print (cut 2-1/2 yards of 1-1/2-inch-wide bias strips for piping)
- Print Ruffle: Vintage Ornament Red (cut three 4 3⁄4-inch-wide strips from selvage to selvage)
- Polka Dot Ruffle: Big Spot Pink (cut three 4 3⁄4-inch-wide strips from selvage to selvage)
Transfer all notches, dots and ruffle guidelines to fabric.
Yoke and Collar
- Construct yoke and collar as per directions in “Frannie.”
- Apply narrow white and pink dot piping to bottom edge of yoke, clipping as necessary so that it follow curves.
- Sew underskirt front to underskirt back with a narrow French seam.
- Trim two of the 43/4-inch Vintage Ornament strips to 44 inches each. Sew short ends together with 1/2-inch seam allowance to form an 86-inch circle. Hem one long edge with either a narrow rolled hemming foot, or finish raw edge with a serger, then turn and straight stitch. Sew two rows of gathering stitches around remaining raw edge.
- Pull up gathering threads until ruffle fits bottom of underskirt. With right sides together (RST), sew ruffle in place. Trim seam to 1/4 inch and finish with a wide zigzag. Press seam up, toward skirt and topstitch from right side (RS) through seam allowance to secure.
- Cut two pieces of Large Pink dot to 44 inches. Join and prepare them in the same manner as first, finishing one long edge and gathering the other.
- With RST and finished edge facing toward top of skirt, align gathered edge with marked line. Stitch ruffle in place (fig. 4).
- Trim seam allowance to a scant 1/4 inch. Press ruffle down, so that it covers ruffle raw edge and topstitch ruffle 1/4 inch from top edge, enclosing raw gathers (fig. 5).
- On pattern, measure line that marks placement for next ruffle and multiply this by 1.5 (i.e. line measures 18 inches (18 inches x 1.5 = 27 inches). Cut 27 inches from remaining Vintage Ornament ruffle strip to this length. Hem one long edge and two short ends, and then gather upper edge.
- Sew ruffle in place, RST, in same manner as second ruffle. Trim seam allowance and topstitch to enclose raw edge.
- Repeat steps 7 and 8 to apply top ruffle, using Large Pink dot strip.
- Insert placket at center back. Set completed underskirt aside (fig. 6).
- Stitch backs to front at side seams.
- Finish bottom edge of overskirt with a narrow rolled hem.
- If desired, apply trim (rickrack, ribbons, decorative stitching etc.) around bottom edge.
- Pin overskirt to underskirt at top edges. Stitch three rows of gathering stitches on front and backs between notches. Apply placket to center back, treating both layers as one. Gather skirts to fit yoke. Refer to pattern instructions for details.
- With RST, pin ruffled skirt/apron to yoke piped edge, pulling yoke lining out of the way to keep it free from seam. Stitch yoke and skirt together, using piping stitches as a guide.
- Grade yoke seam to reduce bulk and remove gathering threads visible below seam allowance.
- See pattern instruction to apply lining. Press up raw edge of yoke lining and whipstitch lining in place to cover raw edges.
- Work two buttonholes at back edge. Sew buttons in place on opposite side.