A free pattern supplement in conjunction with the article “Winter Roses — A Wool Felt Ensemble” by Clarrisa Gossett Sew Beautiful Fall Issue #144.
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Child’s Jacket Sewing Project Instructions
Pattern pieces have been tiled to print out in sections on your home printer using 8-1/2 by 11 inch paper. Follow assembly guide to align match marks and tape pattern sections together. Cut out and pin or trace to fabric. Print as many times as you like and keep your pattern file on your computer for future printouts. It’s that easy!
NOTE: The original jacket pattern called for a lining facing. You will not be using these pieces for this jacket design, but keep it on file should you decide to make another version of the jacket later.
- Cut out two fronts, one back on fold, and two sleeves from wool and lining fabric
- Print out another front and back pattern to draft border pattern as instructed in magazine and cut out from print fabric.
- Cut several 1-3/4 inch wide, on grain fabric strips from print for puffing
- Cut two 1-1/4 inch wide, on grain fabric strips from print for sleeve bands
- Stitch fronts to backs at shoulders and side seams of wool jacket and lining. Press seams open. Set lining aside.
- Cut puffing strips and join end-to-end. Gather by pulling basting threads. Shape and pin to jacket. Baste stitch puffing to front and back of wool jacket. Trim off seam allowance of puffing as close to stitching as possible.
- Prepare Madeira border as directed in article. Glue-baste border inner edge over puffing raw edge and edge stitch along fabric fold of border. Baste stitch within seam allowance along outer edge.
- Prepare spaghetti bias with tatting along one edge and glue-baste over opposite raw edge of puffing as directed in article. Stitch with a twin needle and matching thread. Set jacket bodice aside.
- Glue-baste 1-1/4 inch fabric print strips to bottom of each sleeve, 1-inch from hem foldline. Glue-baste spaghetti bias and tatting over raw edges so that 1-inch of fabric strip remains between bias. Stitch bias with a twin needle and pink thread.
- Stitch sleeve seam. Run an ease stitch in sleeve cap and sew sleeve to wool jacket armscye.
- Stitch sleeve lining to jacket lining armscye.
- Pin lining to embellished wool jacket along neck edge, front edges and bottom back edge. Stitch a 1/2-inch seam all around neck front edge and back, leaving a 5 inch opening for turning along bottom back edge. Trim seams and turn jacket right side out and push sleeve lining into sleeves. Press back seams inside at opening and glue-baste to secure. Topstitch all around jacket seam.
- Fold up sleeve hems on wool sleeves and press. Trim 1/2 inch off sleeve lining and press raw edge under 1/2-inch. Pin sleeve lining to wool hem approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inches from fold edge. Hand whip stitch sleeve lining to wool sleeve hem on inside of sleeve, catching only the hem in stitching. No stitches should show from right side.