As the little ones head back to school, there are all sorts of sweet garments we can create for the season ahead. Of course, a classic jumper is one of the first things that comes to mind for this time of year. Take a look at this little jumper created by designer Laurie Anderson. It’s adorable, of course, but take a closer look at the rickrack trim. Laurie made the rickrack come to life by adding the simplest of hand embroidery stitches in just the right places — creating a chorus line of little chicks dancing around the skirt! And below the chickens, rickrack secures the hem as a “fence” around corn stalks. We dare you to find a cuter way to finish the hem of a denim jumper. Follow Laurie’s tutorial below, originally shared in our August/September 2014 issue of Sew Beautiful magazine, to add this precious rickrack trim to a project of your own.
What You’ll Need:
- Jumper (sample uses “Lucy” by The Children’s Corner)
- Shirt (sample uses “Will” by Collars Etc and with puffed sleeve from “Aprons” by The Children’s Corner)
- NOTE: All fabric from Farmhouse Fabrics.
- Jumper: 1-1/2 yards blue denim
- Lining: 1-1/2 yards yellow/navy/white tartan plaid
- Blouse: 1 yard yellow pima cotton broadcloth
- 1-1/2 yards of yellow scalloped trim from Farmhouse Fabrics
- 3 yards of white rickrack
- Piping cord
- Four navy 5/8-inch buttons
- Darner needle #7 or #9 or embroidery needle #7
- General sewing thread for construction in white, navy and yellow
- DMC Perle Cotton #8 (substitute embroidery floss if desired)
- #353 soft peach
- #321 red
- #310 black
- #743 yellow
- #909 green
- Water-soluble marker
- Basting glue
1. Launder and press all fabric.
2. Following pattern instructions and cutting layout guide, cut out all pattern pieces.
How to Prepare Front Jumper:
Creating a Pattern Piece for Lower Hem of Skirt
1. Measure from lower edge of jumper pattern 2-1/2 inches, making a pencil mark across edge of pattern (fig. 1).
2. Trace off lower edge of pattern with new markings onto a piece of tracing paper (fig. 2).
3. Cut new pattern piece out. This will be referred as “hem band.”
4. Place hem band on denim fabric, pin and cut out pattern piece (fig. 3).
5. Turn under upper edge of hem band 1/4 inch and press.
6. Line up lower edges of hem band to lower edge of jumper and pin; wrong side of hem band will go to right side of jumper. Stack pattern piece on top of jumper to use as a guide (fig. 4). Hem band is created to tuck rickrack under and over folded edge for fence line.
Creating Fence Line
1. Cut a piece of rickrack the length of hem band.
2. Tuck every other dip in rickrack under hem band as you sew a very narrow seam close to fold on hem band (fig. 5). Make sure you flip up rickrack on dips that will be overlapping hem band. TIP: Using a skewer to flip rickrack up out of the way aids in stitching rickrack in place.
3. Stitch across entire hem band (fig. 6).
Stitching Upper Rickrack Row
1. Measure up 2 inches from “fence line” for placement of upper rickrack row. Using a water-soluble marker, mark placement line across skirt (fig. 7).
2. Using fabric-basting glue, lightly glue down rickrack on top of placement line (fig. 8).
How to Embellish:
1. Begin with soft peach perle cotton (one strand – use three strands if using regular embroidery floss). Working on inner dips of rickrack, take needle in and out all the way through to back of fabric, working across rickrack. This will create a diagonal stitch between each dip in rickrack. (See photo).
2. Create eyes using black DMC perle cotton, making a French knot in center of each upper portion of rickrack (fig. 9). Work across row of rickrack.
3. Create beak using one strand of red perle cotton; work a lazy daisy stitch for beak across entire row (fig. 10).
4. Using one strand of yellow perle cotton, create chicken legs using straight stitches (refer to fig. 10).
1. Using one strand of yellow perle cotton, stitch three straight stitches in every other dip of upper portion of rickrack (fig. 11).
2. Using one strand of green floss, stitch a stem stitch for stalk and two lazy daisy stitches for leaves (refer to fig. 11). Complete garment using pattern instructions.
Laurie Anderson is from Columbia, TN and owns Southern Stitches Fine Heirloom Sewing and Custom-made Embroideries (southern-stitches.com) and SewNso’s Sewing Journal (sewnso.blogspot.com). Her love for heirloom sewing and smocking began after the birth of her children, who are now grown. Today she enjoys designing and sewing for her grandchildren.
Ready for more? Find this article and much more in our August/September 2014 issue of Sew Beautiful. Plus, shop all back issues of Sew Beautiful in our online shop.