Try Geometric Smocking with a Scalloped Twist

Stitch up a seasonal corduroy fabric with the soft look of scalloped smocking.

Corduroy is a traditional fall fabric that’s as popular as ever this year. It’s plush and comfortable, rich in color, and best of all, it requires fewer pleats for an insert that works up quickly. In keeping with corduroy’s soft hand, Stacey Moeller designed this “Scallops and Daisies” smocking plate that takes the edge off geometric smocking. The plate originally appeared in our September/October 2005 issue of Sew Beautiful. Below, enjoy the smocking graph and instructions, along with a materials list and notes for making the jumper.

Materials

  • Pattern
    • Stacey used the “Amy” jumper pattern by Children’s Corner for the dress pictured here. While this specific pattern is no longer in print, similar jumper patterns are available.
  • Fabric
    • Burgundy featherwale corduroy by Windsor Fabrics, Inc.
    • Navy blue broadcloth by Springs
  • Floss
    • DMC Six-Strand Embroidery Cotton
      • navy blue #336
      • mauve #316
  • Needle
    • #7 Long darner

Adaptation Notes

NOTE: This may vary depending on your specific pattern and fabric choices.

Since corduroy is a thick fabric, you will not need as much width for pleating.

1. Reduce width of skirt front from 44-inches to 39-inches.

2. Reduce width of skirt back from 44-inches to 36-inches.

Smocking

• Design is worked over eight rows and 132 pleats.

• Pleat 11 rows.

• Top and bottom rows are holding rows.

• Row 1 is left unsmocked.

• Work all smocking and embroidery stitches with three strands of floss.

“Scallops and Daisies” smocking graph by Stacey Moeller – click to enlarge!

1. Find center two pleats on Row 3, and with blue floss, begin with a down cable leaving a long tail of floss to finish other half. From cable, four-step trellis to Row 2, cable 13 beginning with an up cable, four-step trellis back down to Row 3, down cable one. Continue across row as shown on graph ending with a down cable. Turn work and finish other half.

2. Repeat step 1 twice from center for the next two lines of stitching: Begin each line at center cable 1/8-space (in mauve) and 1/4-space (in blue) working down from Row 3. Finish across plate.

3. Work across Row 4 and 5-1/2 from left to right using previous line of stitching as a guide. Begin with a down cable on Row 5, four-step trellis up, cable 13 beginning with up cable on Row 4. Four-step trellis down. Repeat twice more, positioning line of stitching just below and just above initial row (consult graph).

4. Repeat first three lines of stitching (blue, mauve, blue) beginning with a down cable on Row 5.

5. Flip work and smock exact mirror image of steps above between Rows 5-1/2 through 9.

6. Using mauve floss, center daisies in each opening on Row 5. Stitch five-petal lazy daisies in each opened area. Using blue floss, work a single French knot at center of each daisy.


Stacey Moeller lives in Milton, Florida with her family. She joined the Emerald Coast chapter of SAGA after a friend taught her how to smock. “Scallops and Daisies” was her second original design published in Sew Beautiful (the first was “Aviator Wings” in the Emerald Coast pictorial, issue 99).


Explore more smocking ideas and instruction in our online shop:

If you’ve ever wanted to learn to smock, this is the video for you! Martha Pullen starts with the basics, guides you through a variety of stitches and covers picture smocking and machine smocking.

Take your projects to new heights with Lezette Thomason’s step-by-step instructions on this video. Using simple tools and supplies, she shows how to alter existing patterns to add smocking or pleats.

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